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Dianna's Purple Poppies (Annual Seed)
Even though these are listed in the fall 2014 catalog (printed before poppy season) I don't know if seed will be available this year or not. I've been working on the strain the past few years, because in some seed batches, there has been a slight mutation to redder colors which I need to remove. When I'm convinced there is enough seed of solid purple, the order button will be made active. Please be patient because it may not happen this year.
Click on Planting Guide tab (just above) for "How to Grow".
Visitors to the farm are quite taken with our stand of deep purple Poppies. Several years ago, Dianna planted a double-flowered "black" (Papaver paeoniflorum) that refused to stand up to our wind and rain, but the resulting seedlings... Wow! Some customers have reported that our strain is similar to 'Lauren's Grape' Papaver somniferum, but the plants and flowers are larger.
Silky-textured, deep purple, single flowers with a dark plum center on sturdy stems are the focal point of the front garden during the months of June and July. Seed is allowed to form and we collect enough to share with our customers and also to seed the bed for the following summer.
There are two options for receiving seed. Seed can be simply included with your order - or if you are not ordering bulbs at this time - we charge $3 for postage and mailer (up to 9 packets) which will adjust your total before we charge your credit/debit card. Be sure to choose how you would like your seed sent to you.
How to Plant Poppy Seed
Poppy seeds are very small in size and add a quite delicious "crunch" to breads, cake and muffins and these beautiful flowers are easily grown in the home garden. Regular garden soils, not too rich with compost and other amendments are perfect. Fast draining soils are a must however, and in gardens that are mostly clay—a raised bed with native soil, sand and a light proportion of compost is perfect to provide fast drainage from heavy rainfall or accidental over watering.
Annual Poppies (flowers in one season and matures seed) can be planted anytime between fall and spring and you can collect the mature seeds to plant in another garden site for next year, use them in cooking, or simply let the pods mature and fall in place—called "self sowing". All poppy seeds need light to germinate, so if you cover them with soil, peat, vermiculite, or sifted compost they will not grow. Fallen leaves from trees and shrubs can interfere with germination by cutting off the light, but snow is not a problem, because as it melts, seeds begin to germinate, whether they were fall planted by you or growing from mature pods dropped on the ground in fall.
Fallen seed that was been buried and then brought to the surface during garden cleanup, roto-tilling or planting of other flowers may germinate several years later. In 2010, Dianna scattered surplus seeds in a bare section of field. Husband, Bob, not knowing what she had done, only saw Groundsel, Thistles, Dandelions and other weeds starting to grow in the "unused ground". He tilled the soil, which effectively blocked the seed off from light and so none germinated, especially with subsequent cultivation and planting of oats to build up the soil in preparation for a future lily crop.
When oats are used for a cover crop, they are thickly sown and tilled into the ground when they are about a foot tall to add nutrients and bio-mass to the soil—vastly improving the soil texture. Any poppy seed brought to the surface by the roto-tilling would not have had enough light to grow with the quick-to-sprout oats. That fall a second round of oats were planted, tilled into the soil in late winter, and the lilies planted in March. To everyone's surprise, after we finally left the soil alone for several weeks, a nice scattering of poppies began growing in between the lily sprouts - and were left to grow together over summer. After all, who could weed them out with all they had been through?
1. Deeply dig a special nursery bed about 18” across and loosen the soil, removing any perennial weed roots, to encourage deeper taproots and further reduce watering requirements in summer. Sow one-third of a packet of seed in December/January, then plant the next third in a new area in February and remaining seed in March/April. Especially in the Pacific Northwest where heavy winter/spring rainfall can wash away or bury the tiny seeds before they germinate—you will have flowers from the later planting, which provides us flowers until heavy frost.
2. Thorougly water your planting site and let it sit overnight to firm the soil and provide ground moisture if the weather has been quite dry. This step is not as necessary during winter months, especially if the weather has been wet.
3. Using your fingertips, scratch the surface to make a very shallow "texture” on the soil surface. Not too deep—or the seed may become accidentally buried and not germinate.
4. Scatter 1/3 of a seed packet evenly across the entire prepared 18” circle. You can mix the seed with fine sand and sprinkle from a pepper shaker or whatever method works best for you.
5. Gently pat down the planting area with your hands to firm the soil and ensure the seeds make contact and will not dry out. This is the main reason why simply scattering seed throughout your garden does not work well; seeds may cling to leaves, sit on top of a rocks, mulch or may be accidentally buried while you weed in spring.
6. If rain is not expected on a regular basis for the next several weeks, then water with a fine mist from your hose, being careful to not form "puddles". During dry spring weather, keep the soil lightly moist until germination, after which you can let nature take over.
This is only possible if newly germinated seedlings are less than 1/4 inch tall—any larger and you risk disturbing newly formed taproots and the developing feeder roots. The photograph is of a 4 foot tall plant at the end of the season, pulled out of dry sandy soil, with nearly all the roots intact. See how there are not a lot of roots radiating out from the taproot? This is the reason you cannot move mature stems without damage.
Simply lift sections about 2 to 3 inches across and 4 inches deep of soil/seedlings with a small trowel and plant the entire mini clump of 15+seedlings—do not separate—to a new section of prepared fluffy soil. The strongest seedlings in each clump will continue to grow.
Sowing poppy seeds in containers.
Commercial potting soil is generally more heavily textured than your native garden soil. When poppy seeds are sown on the surface, they will generally fall between soil componets and not be accessible to light. When watered they may become buried even further. A good solution is to to simply sow a 1/4 inch layer of very fine, freshwater beach sand (not salt) or sifted garden soil on the surface of the potting soil and scatter the seed on top. Poppies do a fine job of self sowing on the finely crushed rock of our paths, so you can skip the "patting down" (step #5) with sand but be certain to keep the pot slightly moist. The soil underneath the sand should stay moist, even if the sand on top appears drier. If you wish to grow poppies in small pots to transplant later, simply sow a few seeds in each container and transplant the entire root ball when the plants roots have begun to fill out the pot but before the taproot becomes stunted. Do not thin, let the dominant seedlings grow. Separating the the seedlings doesn’t work—we tried that as well and both halves promptly died, because the fragile tap roots were damaged.
Gathering seed in fall.
The brown colored pods in the photo are ready for harvest, the greener ones still have a week or so to ripen, based on weather. We simply cut pods off as the color changes and leave everything in a clean bucket to finish drying, then pour the brown and dried pods into a household strainer and the tiny seeds fall through into a new bucket. It is hard to retrieve all the seed in one or two passes, so the mostly empty pods are then scattered over a cleaned and prepared garden to break down over winter and release the remaining seed.
ANNUAL SEED - SUITABLE FOR ALL CLIMATES.
In the spring of 1998, Dianna happily planted a double-flowered “black” poppy in her garden with dozens of her other self-sown poppies of similar type, expecting to introduce a new color to the landscape, but during a sudden Northwest storm of wind and heavy rainfall, those stems immediately toppled to the ground. Although she was disappointed, the “black” poppy stems were left where they were to feed the bees until the next weeding, several weeks later. However, when the next summer’s self-sown seedlings bloomed... Wow! Three majestic plants had large, deep purple, single flowers and the strong stems did not fall over during the usual blustery weather in early summer. Dianna promptly tore out all the other poppies but those three plants, and after five years of further refinement by crossing the resulting seedlings with the strongest and deepest purples, a new strain of wind and rain proven poppies was ready and made their debut in our Fall 2002 lily bulb catalog.
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