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'Leslie Woodriff' - Orienpet Hybrid Lily Bulb
Flower Description: Bred by Robert Griesbach, ‘Leslie Woodriff’ is quite possibly the best of all his creations and was named in honor of Mr. Leslie Woodriff, the father of the Oriental Hybrid Lily. We knew Leslie well, counting him among our closest friends in life, and this lily was rightfully named for him. It is as colorful and unique in the garden as Leslie was in life and in his garden.
We first viewed this lily at the home of LaVern Friemann of Bellingham, Washington in the late 1980’s, a bulb given him by Robert for use in his ‘Black Beauty’ breeding line. Eventually when LaVern retired and passed along all of his material to us, it included several bulbs of ‘Leslie Woodriff’ propagated from the bulb he received from Mr. Griesbach years earlier. ‘Leslie Woodriff’ was first released to the garden trade in 1987 by our good friend, Julius Wadekamper, then owner of Borbeleta Gardens in Minnesota at the time. Julius was a peer and close friend of both Robert and LeVern and introduced selections from both men.
This beauty has floated around in our display garden, the "gene pool" garden and the breeding house for around 20 years. Erroneous information has been spread concerning this lily, either out of ignorance or in an attempt to make it more "sexy" or to increase sales? Whatever the reason, we want to correct the erroneous statements of others concerning both 'Leslie Woodriff', the lily and Leslie Woodriff, the man. Maybe the errors are an attempt to sound as if they know the lilies they are offering and know what they are talking about when in reality, they just buy and re-sell.
What is true is that ‘Leslie Woodriff’ has a white base color and is highlighted in the flower centers with a rich, nearly Bing-Cherry red coloration. The nectary furrows are a lovely green and yellow. Typically stems reach about 4 feet and it can be slow to settle in being stingy with blooms until established. We have moved bulbs over 10 inches in circumference only to find even with their enormous size they only produced 3 or 4 flowers the following season whereas the previous season they had upwards of 2 dozen or more.
‘Leslie Woodriff’ was bred from ‘Tetraploid Black Beauty’ and ‘Tetraploid White Henryi’. It is not the product of ‘Black Beauty’ and ‘Scheherazade’ as some are now reporting as they feature 'Scheherazade' as well. What is true is that Mr. Leslie Woodriff created both 'Black Beauty' and 'White Henryi', but it is erroneous is to say that Leslie had any connection or input into the creation of 'Scheherazade'. He did not. In fact, the selection ‘LF-13’ which later became ‘Scheherazade’ was but a mere seedling when ‘Leslie Woodriff’ first arrived in the garden of LaVern Friemann, the breeder who created ‘Scheherazade’ as documented in the book ‘Lilies’ by LaVern's friend Edward McRae. Examples of the next generation coming out of 'Leslie Woodriff' can be seen by clicking on the "In the Works" button on our home page. View selections 2003eot1, 2004eot2, and 2005eot8.
Promoted as being a “rebloomer” along with ‘Scheherazade’ that "repeats the blooming process sometimes twice in the same season", we have to disagree with this statement. The key word in this quote is "sometimes". When yours doesn't re-bloom and you contact the company, they can say we said "sometimes". This is more like the text you see on auction sites, not text coming from multi-million dollar companies.
In nearly 20 years of familiarity with both of these lilies in our fields, we have seen stems reach over 6 feet and have in excess of 40 flowers, but never, as with all true lilies, has there ever been a second bloom as you see with some daylilies. True lilies put up a stem, produce buds on that stem, the buds open into flower, the petals eventually fall off, and that is it, the lily bulb must then prepare itself for the following year. They do not produce a second growth of buds on the same stem and flower again later in the season. When they are done flowering, they are done for the season. This is a Lily fact of life, and to say it stays in flower as long as 8 weeks is also be a real stretch. With a well established stem producing both secondary and tertiary buds, 5 weeks yes, 6 weeks maybe.
The above is offered as an FYI by someone who has been familiar with this lily since its beginning and to set straight the recorded parentage being erroneously reported on line and in other catalogs along with our first hand observations of its flowering cycle. Though most gardners don't really care about the orgins of the lilies they want in their gardens, we are historians as well as growers and don't like seeing history revised. We actually grow and produce the lilies we offer you, our customers. We are not just jobbers who write “flowery” descriptions "sometimes" promising that which the lily cannot deliver. While jobbers have someone sitting in an office writing about that of which they often have little or no first hand growing experience, we have been in the field for over 3 decades getting dirt under our fingernails. On the plus side, neither 'Leslie Woodriff' nor 'Scheherazade' have been referred to as "trees" yet. OT lilies are not and do not become trees. Maybe it is time for the FTC to check into the growing number of false and/or misleading claims found on the web?
Bulb Size - Our standard for bulbs of this Orienpet Hybrid Lily Bulb cultivar ranges from Premium-size» (16/18 cm) to Exhibition-size» (over 20 cm). Click here for details.
Classification: Orienpet Hybrid Lily Bulb (USDA Zones 5-9, the colder climates of this range must provide winter mulching.)
Stock # 9017 - 'Leslie Woodriff' - Orienpet Hybrid Lily
Plant Lily Bulbs Immediately upon Receipt
Lily bulbs are never completely dormant and need to be planted as soon as possible. You can delay planting for 2-3 weeks by keeping the bulbs in a cool, not frozen (34-40° F.), area of a garage, basement or refrigerator, but longer and you risk bulb damage. You must open the shipping box to check your order and then re-close any plastic bags before short term storage. Our packing material protects your bulbs and absorbs excessive moisture, but if large water droplets form within the plastic bag, poke more “air” holes in the sides of the poly bag, being careful to not damage your sleeping bulbs. Lily bulbs are happiest in the garden where they can begin growing new roots immediately.
Choose an area with good air circulation and well-drained soil. Waterlogged soils, with poor drainage or too much “organics” in the soil mean certain death to lily bulbs. A sloping site with natural drainage is best. When planting in heavy clay, try mixing Perlite (the white crunchy stuff found in commercial potting soil – not Vermiculite that holds moisture) or sand with the native soil to create raised beds 8 to 10 inches above ground level, or make raised beds of garden-safe, treated wood. If bothered by moles, mice or gophers nail 1/4-inch galvanized hardware cloth on the bottom of the framework before you back fill with good soil. Sandy loam soils rich in humus with a pH of 5.5-6.5 are ideal.
Lilies look most natural planted in triangular groups of three, spaced 12”-18” apart. Provide at least 6 hours of sun, dappled shade in very warm regions for Orientals. Cover bulbs with fluffy soil and mulch to control weeds and maintain even ground moisture. Plant bulbs 2”- 4” deeper in areas where daily temperatures average over 90 degrees F. and the soil is sandy. Do not plant among aggressive ground covers or where large trees or shrubs will rob nutrients or moisture. Lily bulbs need regular fertilizer, water, and cultivation. They do NOT “naturalize” like Daffodils or Tulips, which have a hard outer shell. Be sure to mulch bulbs in cold climates if a good winter snow cover is not expected. Likewise, in more temperate areas, cold saturated soil will rot lily bulbs some years, so a raised area and fast-draining soil is recommended. Click to leave this page and go to More Information
Find your USDA Hardiness Zone
The chart published by the USDA and complete interactive searching can be found on the website for the US National Arboretum. When researching your location, bear in mind that the map lines are not absolute and each garden has its own unique micro-climate. Neighborhoods with more trees blocking the wind, hills that "drain" away moisture faster, concrete bulkheads, sidewalks and driveways that tend to collect heat, as well as southern exposures will allow you to grow plants that might not be recommended for your area. The general guidelines are based on average low temperatures are found below. To open a new browser window access the interactive map click USDA Zone Chart
Asiatics (Graffity, Tigerplay, etc.) grow best in zones 1 to 9, no winter mulch is needed and they prefer colder winters to reset bloom.
Purebred Orientals (Casablanca, Star Gazer, etc.), without mulch, zones 6 to 9, but if heavily mulched for winter or with a good snowfall, down to zone 3 or 4 easily.
Purebred Trumpets (Copper King, Pink Perfection, etc.), without mulch, zones 7 to 10; heavily mulched, down to zone 3 or 4, but can be subject to late freeze damage in May, cover emerging stems if temperatures below 30 degrees F. are expected.
Oriental-Trumpet Hybrids (Conca ‘dOr, Sweetheart, etc.), same as Purebred Orientals, but seem to be more resistant to late frost damage, plus because of the “trumpet” genes, they do not require as much winter chill as Oriental lilies, thus are very suitable for southern areas and will take higher heat in summer. (See our Heatbuster™ Collection for more information.)
Zone 1--- ( Below -50 F) --- Fairbanks, Alaska; Resolute, NW Territories (Canada)
Zone 2a --- (-50 to -45 F) --- Prudhoe Bay, Alaska; Flin Flon, Manitoba (Canada)
Zone 2b --- (-45 to -40 F) --- Unalakleet, Alaska; Pinecreek, Minnesota
Zone 3a --- (-40 to -35 F) --- International Falls, Minnesota; St. Michael, Alaska
Zone 3b --- (-35 to -30 F) --- Tomahawk, Wisconsin; Sidney, Montana
Zone 4a --- (-30 to -25 F) --- Minneapolis/St.Paul, Minnesota; Lewistown, Montana
Zone 4b --- (-25 to -20 F) --- Northwood, Iowa; Nebraska
Zone 5a --- (-20 to -15 F) --- Des Moines, Iowa; Illinois
Zone 5b --- (-15 to -10 F) --- Columbia, Missouri; Mansfield, Pennsylvania
Zone 6a --- (-10 to -5 F) --- St. Louis, Missouri; Lebanon, Pennsylvania
Zone 6b --- (-5 to 0 F) --- McMinnville, Tennessee; Branson, Missouri
Zone 7a --- (0 to 5 F) --- Oklahoma City, Oklahoma; South Boston, Virginia
Zone 7b --- (5 to 10 F) --- Little Rock, Arkansas; Griffin, Georgia
Zone 8a --- (10 to 15 F) --- Tifton, Georgia; Dallas, Texas
Zone 8b --- (15 to 20 F) --- Austin, Texas; Gainesville, Florida
Zone 9a --- (20 to 25 F) --- Houston, Texas; St. Augustine, Florida
Zone 9b --- (25 to 30 F) --- Brownsville, Texas; Fort Pierce, Florida
Zone 10a --- (30 to 35 F) --- Naples, Florida; Victorville, California
Zone 10b --- (35 to 40 F) --- Miami, Florida; Coral Gables, Florida
Zone 11 --- (above 40 F) --- Honolulu, Hawaii; Mazatlan, Mexico
Wild Lily bulbs making up the genus Lilium belong to the family Liliaceae comprising of approximately 200 genera made up of approximately 2,000 lily species. There are in the neighborhood of 110 to 120 Lilium species depending on whose classification you reference. For the full article, click Knowledge Base